Archive for the ‘Food’ Category

Cheddar Scallion Drop Biscuits

Wednesday, November 11th, 2009

cheddar_scallion_biscuits

These are really good with soup, and a lovely breakfast, IMO. Yes, the pictures are all sideways; I don’t know what is going on here but I’ll fix it later.

* 2 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
* 2 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
* 2 teaspoons sugar
* 3/4 teaspoon baking soda
* 1 teaspoon salt
* 6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) cold unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
* 8 oz extra sharp Cheddar, coarsely grated (~2 cups)
* 6 scallions, white and light green parts, thinly sliced
* 6 oz plain yogurt and 1/4 cup milk (or 1 cup buttermilk; I always have yogurt but rarely have buttermilk)

Preheat oven to 450°F.

Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

Mix flour, baking powder, sugar, baking soda, and salt in a bowl, then blend in butter with a fork or your fingers until mixture resembles coarse meal (you could also give it a quick pulse in the food processor, but be gentle).
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Stir in Cheddar and scallions. Add buttermilk and stir until just combined.

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Drop dough from a spoon in small mounds about 2 inches apart on the lined baking sheets.

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Bake in middle of oven until golden, 18 to 20 minutes. As noted, these burn pretty easily due to all of that butter and cheese, so keep an eye on them. I left one sheet in just a bit too long, and look what happened (I ate them anyway):

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Cauliflower Soup

Wednesday, July 8th, 2009

I made this cauliflower soup last night as one of those “I’m going grocery shopping tomorrow, I’m low on ingredients, what needs to be used up” concoctions.
I would have added a carrot but the one left in the drawer looked a bit fatigued; I also think leeks would be better than onions in this recipe.

You don’t need to worry about cutting the vegetables all that uniformly since you’ll puree the soup at the end, but they should be moderately similarly sized so that they cook evenly; the cauliflower pieces can be a little bigger than the other vegetables.

I thought about adding curry powder, which would have been delicious, but I wanted a purer cauliflower taste this time around.  You could also add cheese at the end.  As I was eating it I started having visions of how good little crisp bits of pancetta would be on top of it, too; maybe next time.

So here is what I did with a few minor wishful thinking changes:
Makes about 2.5 qts, enough for 6-8 servings

2 T. unsalted butter
2 leeks, white parts only, rinsed well and chopped
1 large carrot, peeled and diced

I stalk celery, trimmed and diced

2 russet potatoes, peeled and diced

1 head cauliflower, cored and florets cut into maybe 1″ pieces

4c. chicken stock (low-sodium is best)
1 bay leaf

1/2 c. half-and-half
salt
black pepper

Melt the butter in a 3 or 4 qt. heavy-bottomed pot; add leeks, celery and carrots.  Saute until softened, about 5 minutes.  Add potatoes and cauliflower; stir around for 30 seconds or so.  Add the chicken stock and enough water to just cover the vegetables (you don’t want this to be too soupy).

Simmer on low-med heat for about 15-20 minutes until vegetables are soft; don’t let it get too mushy.

Puree the soup in a blender in batches.  Stir in the half-and half and season with salt and pepper.

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Cibatta

Tuesday, June 30th, 2009

I’ve been rather obsessively tinkering with a ciabatta recipe from Cook’s Illustrated.  Their article is great, as usual, but I’m finding that even their well-dcoumented process is not perfect for my kitchen conditions.  I’ve been experiementing with how long I’m letting the starter ferment for, to putting the dough in the refrigerator to retard the final rise, to kneading times…the results have all been good but I don’t feel quite “there” yet.

That said, I would not hesitate to recommend that people start playing with this basic recipe; I’ll update this when I optimize it (for me, anyway).

There are a lot of steps and the technique is everything, so read through before you make this, but honestly it’s not difficult; very easy to do and you can get other things done during the rising times.

Please note that you’ll need parchment paper, a spray bottle and a large baking sheet or pizza stone for this.

Cibatta (loosely based on the recipe in  Cook’s Illustrated, March & April 2009)

Starter (biga)

1 c. all-purpose flour

1/8 tsp. rapid-rise yeast

1/2 cup room-temperature water

Starter (biga)

Stir the flour, yeast and water together in a medium-sized glass or metal bowl.  Cover tightly with plastic and let sit for 8-24 hours.  The longer you let it sit, the looser and more fermented your biga will be.

Dough

2 c. all-purpose flour

1 c. water at room-temperature (the original recipe calls for 3/4 c. water and 1/4 c. milk to prevent the dough from getting too bubbly, but I didn’t have that problem and am finding that all water is working better)

1/2 tsp. rapid-rise yeast

1 1/2 tsp. table salt (not kosher; probably up the amount to 2 tsp. if using kosher)

Add the flour, water, yeast and salt to the biga.  Mix in a stand mixer using a paddle for 3-4 minutes on medium speed, scraping down the sides and paddle once or twice during that time.

Switch to a dough hook and knead on medium speed for 8-10 minutes (no more).  The dough should be shiny and it will climb up the hook and pull away from the sides of the bowl; you may have to scrape down the sides and the hook once during the process. Dough will be *very* wet.

Transfer dough with a dough scraper to a medium sized glass or metal bowl and cover with plastic.  Let rise for 30 minutes, until doubled in volume.

First turn: Using a dough scraper (spray with nonstick cooking spray if you have it), turn the dough over on itself, turn the bowl 90 degrees and repeat, and repeat for a total of 8 turns.  Cover with plastic and let rise again for 30 minutes.

Second turn: repeat steps for first turn; cover with plastic and let rise again for 30 minutes.

Shaping the bread: After the dough has doubled in volume after the second turn, turn onto a *very* well-floured counter and cut in half, trying not to deflate it entirely; separate halves, laying them cut side up.  Lightly press one half with your fingertips (use flour) until it’s a rectangle about 12″ x 6″.  Fold one short side in, then the other, like an envelope.  Place loaf seam side down on a baking sheet or pizza peel, on a well-floured piece of parchment paper.  Repeat with other half.  Dust with flour, and lightly press with fingertips until each loaf is about 7″x 13″.  Cover with plastic and let rise for 30 minutes.

Baking:  While the loaves are doing their final rise, pre-heat the oven to 450 degrees; place a baking stone or inverted baking sheet on the bottom rack (to bake the bread on) and let heat for at least 30 minutes.  When ready to bake, slide the loaves on their parchment onto the stone or sheet.  Spray liberally with water from a spray bottle and close oven.  Bake for about 205-30 minutes, spraying a few times during baking, until crust is brown and the loaves sound hollow when you rap them with your knuckles. (note:  the first time I made this I couldn’t find my spray bottle so I put a pan of water in the oven when I started pre-heating it to create steam; it worked alright, but wasn’t quite the same).

And…done.  Now, prepare your biga for tomorrow ;)

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Bacon is your best friend

Saturday, January 31st, 2009

I was already impressed with the previously unknown (by me) passion of bacon lovers (see the basket-weave bacon-cheese creation that will clog your arteries just upon viewing), but these geniuses have taken things to a new level…bacon now really can be your best friend.bacon-elemental

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Famous Blue Cheese Ball

Saturday, January 31st, 2009

A friend recently commented that this recipe is hinting at a more X-rated title; maybe…

This is classic 50s cocktail party fare; the recipe doubles easily and I recommend making two at a time so that you can refresh the plate halfway through the evening when the first one has been pretty much demolished (it will be).  Serve with crackers, baguette, apple and pear slices, etc.

  • 1 (8 oz.) pkg. cream cheese, softened (totally worth it to buy Philadlephia brand)
  • 4 oz. blue cheese, crumbled (Danish blue, or Roquefort), crumbled (but do not buy pre-crumbled)
  • 1/4 c. chopped green onion or 2 T. chives (optional)
  • 1 tsp. Worcestershire (I add a little more than this, but that’s just me)
  • 1-2T. brandy
  • 1 clove garlic, minced (fresh only)
  • 1/4 tsp. fresh ground black pepper
  • salt to taste (if needed; it’s pretty salty)
  • Chopped pecans (maybe 1-1.5 cups? You’ll have some leftover)

Have all ingredients at room temp.
Cream the cream cheese and the blue cheese in a mixer until fairly smooth (a few little lumps are fine).
Mix in Worcester and brandy until fully incorporated.
(note: don’t let it get all fluffy, you just want to mix stuff together)
Mix in scallions or chives and garlic, salt and pepper.

Chill in bowl until firm, probably a couple of hours.

Butter hands and shape the mixture into a ball. Roll in chopped pecans, pressing in until fully coated.
Wrap in plastic wrap and chill (I put the wrapped ball in a bowl to help keep its shape).
Ball is best made a day in advance of serving.
Let come almost up to room temp, or to room temp, before serving.

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Lasagna Bolognese

Friday, January 30th, 2009

I make this a lot; I like it, at least one of the kids likes it some of the time, and it’s good for breakfast (esp. with hot sauce; Frank’s RedHot preferred).  The recipe looks intimidating, but it really isn’t; there are a lot of ingredients but making the sauce is pretty simple and can be done in advance, and the bechamel and assembly are a snap.  Really.

For the sauce:

  • 2 medium onions, finely chopped
  • 4 celery ribs, finely chopped
  • 2 medium carrots, finely chopped
  • 5 garlic cloves, minced
  • 1/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
  • 1/4 pound pancetta, ground by butcher or thinly sliced and pulsed in food processor until finely chopped (Pancetta is found in the deli or refrigerated deli section; you can freeze any you have leftover for later use. You can substitute bacon; simmer bacon in water for 10 minutes, drain, and then grind)
  • 1 pound ground beef (note:  you can use 2 pounds of ground beef instead of the combination of meats)
  • 1/2 pound ground pork (not lean)
  • 1/2 pound ground veal
  • 1-2 cans diced tomatoes (with juice; if you’re making this to eat w. pasta and not making lasagna, drain the juice)
  • 1 cup whole milk
  • 1 cup dry white wine (can also use red; if all you have around is not-dry white, like Pinot Grigios, that’s ok, too)
  • 1 cup beef broth (canned is fine; water/bouillon is fine)
  • 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves (or 1/2 tsp. dried, or a big bunch of thyme sprigs tied together for easy removal)
  • 1 1/4 teaspoons kosher salt
  • 1/2 teaspoon black pepper

Note:  I grind up the pancetta/bacon and garlic together in a mini-chopper (easier to keep it from getting too pasty)  and add them together at the meat stage, but the instructions below are assuming that you didn’t do that.

Another note:  You can chop up the onions, carrots and celery by pulsing in a food processor; it’s ok if they get kind of fine, just don’t let them turn to mush.  Alternatively, Trader Joes’ (and probably other groceries) sell a pre-made mire poix that’s pretty good; you can substitute a cup or two of that instead.

Heat the olive oil  in a 6- to 8-quart heavy potand cook onions, celery, carrot, and garlic over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until softened, about 5 minutes (make sure not to burn the garlic; you would have to wash your pot and start all over again.  Seriously).

Add pancetta, and whatever ground meat you’re using and cook over moderately high heat, stirring and breaking up lumps, until no longer pink, about 6-10 minutes.  The point here is to cook the meat but not brown it

Stir in milk; let cook until milk is almost gone; add wine, broth and tomatoes; stir and let come back to a simmer.

Add thyme and gently simmer, covered, until sauce is thickened, 1 to 1 1/2 hours. Add salt and pepper and remove from heat.

Yet another note:  I make this in a big Le Creuset pot; once everything’s come to a simmer I sometimes put the lid on and put it in a 275 degree oven for an hour or two so that I don’t have to worry about stirring it or having the bottom burn.  If you’re super-lucky and have an oven with an automatic cook-time feature where you can program a time for the oven to shut off, even better; that way if you somehow happen to drink the leftover wine, you don’t have to worry about forgetting about it.

Sauce may be made 2 days ahead and cooled, uncovered, before chilling, covered. Frozen, it keeps for 1 month. It’s best made a day or two ahead of using.

For the bechamel:

  • 4 tablespoons unsalted butter
  • 4 tablespoons flour
  • 4 cups cold whole milk
  • 1/2-1 cup grated parmesan (domestic is fine)
  • kosher salt and fresh black pepper to taste
  • a pinch of nutmeg if you that sort of person

Melt the butter in a large saucepan; whisk in flour.  Cook for a minute (to get rid of the flour-y taste).

Add the milk and whisk.  Bring to a slow simmer until sauce is thickened; add cheese and salt and pepper to taste.

To assemble:

  • One package no-boil lasagna noodles (I like Barilla the best so far)
  • Sauce (don’t worry about including the juices in the lasagna; that’s what makes it work)
  • Bechamel
  • Grated parmesan
  • 9×13 baking dish

Put a thinnish layer of sauce in the bottom of the pan.

Lay 4 lasagna noodles to cover the bottom of the pan (there will be some minor gaps in some places, overlaps in others.  It’s cool).

Layer sauce to cover the noodles, then 1/3 of the bechamel.

Repeat noodles/sauce/bechamel 2 more times, for a total of 3 layers.

Sprinkle parmesan on top.

Cover with foil and bake at 350 degrees for maybe 45-60 minutes.  Uncover and bake for 15-20 more minutes until bubbling and starting to brown.

Let rest for 10-15 minutes after removing from the oven before cutting and serving.

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